An old morning in strafuupon-
Avon, in a small workspace between a corner and a gap, three women are doing what they do best: systematically destroying the original costumes.
Helen Hughes, the leader of the trio, said: "Today we are dealing with Banquo rudely . " She nodded to the legless mannequin in a simple black suit coat.
No matter what they did to Macbeth's worktime friend (no spoilers)
They have done a thorough job: The dress is covered with dust, the edges are worn, and it looks crumpled over-use.
Actually, this is a brand. new buy-in, this.
But he will be fighting all the time, so we will make him cute and dirty, you know?
Hughes and her colleagues are three of 30. odd full-
Time craftsman working at Royal Shakespeare (RSC)in-
House clothing workshop, right across the road from its flagship theater, in a slightly dirty Level 2 --
Scene store before listing.
In the past 131, clothing has been made on this website.
Since the company's full relocation
In the 1950 s, almost all RSC productions and every RSC actor-from Peggy Ashcroft to Mia row, from John gilgood to Daniel Day --
Lewis designed the costume in this uneven room.
This is a process that has been honed for decades and Hughes's professional destructive team has played an important role in it.
As the person in charge of dyeing and painting, she gets wearable items-clothes, shoes, masks, you can name it-source, or made by colleagues in adjacent rooms, then start adding any finishing touches that the scene needs.
It can involve a simple color work (
She goes through 30 lbs of dye powder a year)
For a fabric, but mainly to make things look "real ".
We call it "Crash," she said, pointing her finger at the quotation marks.
"Most outfits need to look like they're not worn for the first time, so we wash them all and steam them and give them natural creases or tear them off, or, if we don't want to look like someone's hands are there a lot, maybe fill our pockets with pebbles . . . . . . Then we add anything we need above.
"Anything from a spray light to a cheese grinder is used to make things look worn, and other than that, it may be for mud, vomit, sweat or-often blood --
The team is an expert in terrible wounds.
Let Hughes make a coat of blood.
For example, she would answer, "What kind ? "?
There are venous blood, arterial blood, edible blood, new dry blood, old blood with hard skin . . . . . . You don't want it to be too red-it looks bad-but there are a lot of types and thickness.
But we have a secret recipe.
It will continue to do so.
If "broken down" shortens the gestation brewing period of the garment to near the end, Alistair McArthur, head of clothing at RSC, is the one who started it all.
A few months before the production began, he met with the costume designer designated by the show-always freelancer-and worked out an action plan.
They discuss historical periods and general concepts, and then MacArthur considers what needs to be done from scratch, what can be reused or just purchased.
Sometimes designers have accurate drawings to show their bold creative vision, and sometimes it's just a string of words.
He made no judgment.
"We're not here to design clothes, we're here to achieve what the designer wants, so we shouldn't question '51-year-
Old man, have a cup of coffee on his little ground.
In the office, there's a 5ft poster for the American musical, George Hearn.
Theater star, drag.
I admit that sometimes when you see something, you think, "Oh, I think they made a mistake there," but some designers like some feedback, nobody else really knows.
There is no fixed way to do this.
MacArthur took office in 2002, previously working as a clothing freelancer at the National Theatre and the Royal Opera House.
Although these institutions are very old, the clothing workshop of RSC is the largest (
In any case, by number)
It can be said that this country produces the most.
It is divided into five main departments-men's wear, women's wear, footwear and Armory, dyeing and painting, jewelry and Mills-with little change for decades.
After the initial meeting, MacArthur stepped back and allowed
The clothing supervisor began to purchase fabrics and lines.
The company recently signed three-
Reached an annual agreement with Coats, the world's leading thread manufacturer, to help supply the 186,000-yard garment thread that RSC passes every year.
There are also hundreds of fabric samples in the building, and even more inspiration can be drawn from a huge warehouse in 5 minutes, where about 30,000 pieces of old clothing are kept at a temperature-and humidity-
Control the environment to avoid moisture or biological damage to the environment.
However, there is always a need to go to London for research, call suppliers around the world, and a lot of Google searches to find specific colors or patterns that fit the designer's imagination.
The fabric often comes from Italy and France, from the Crown of Bavaria, and from habidari, New York.
Along the corridor, Emma harupp, head of men's clothing, stood by the navel --
Supervise the Advanced workstations of the library
A quiet group of sewing machines and garment workers all squatted on sewing machines.
Together they made hundreds of outfits for showsa for 15 to 30 years, usually three to four completely different pieces at a time.
When I visited, they were Mrs. Ritchie's stupid behavior, a comedy written by Mary Pix in 1700;
The bloody Duchess of Malfie of John Webster
Contemporary Macbeth starring Christopher ekleston. Being modern-
The team said it was easy to wear clothes and the last one.
Made a great military coat for ekleston, but he and Niamh Cusack, who plays Mrs. McWhite, will wear the store mainly-
Bought clothes and changed them to look perfect.
If really needed, the whole team gave up everything and the costumes for a period can be cropped, installed and completed in a few days.
Under normal circumstances, however, the fabric will reach the men's toilet a few weeks before rehearsal.
The three cutters took two or three days to finalize the garment before the first try-on, after which the measurements will be made completely and then completed in a few days.
It will fit: At the beginning of each season, each member of the agency has about 50 measurements.
The labels that list the actors and works are also sewn into everything and there is no room for mixingups.
Harrup took out an actor's file.
As expected, the inside of the waist and calf is noticed, but like his "little calf "(
Obviously for the pants)
Tattoos, even allergies.
This is a vegetarian.
"It's more common now, so we don't use fur and we don't keep the leather to a minimum," she said . ".
Harupp came here 23 years ago with a theater.
Degree in design, no experience in cutting;
Now, she makes costumes for "every period in history.
Sir Judi Dench, who first performed at RSC in 1961, once said that no matter how much rehearsal time you have, you can't fully integrate into the character until you are dressed.
MacArthur said that some actors "have a strong idea of how they want to look" and he was accepted.
People like David Tennant are very submissive, but he likes things that are very slim and fit, so we always take that into account.
"If costume props are needed, Alan Smith will make them downstairs. The longest-
On-the-job staff in the building (
29 years)
He's-
Armory-one of only two British theaters.
He is proud to say that the actors like to come here.
They got weapons and became big kids.
There are as many girls as boys.
Smith worked for a while after joining as an intern leather worker in 1989 and hardly saw any changes here.
We can vacuum here.
The mold is now formed, which makes things faster and the material is always lighter.
However, things like chain mail are always too heavy to use real things.
You see, the actors can't move.
"I showed him a picture of Angus mcby of Richard Burton playing Henry V in 1951.
He believed that the crown and scepter would be made where he stood.
Make a sword by Smith (
Blades usually come in from a nearby metal factory, although the massacre scene of the Duchess of Malfi means a rare sharp blade has been ordered)
, Spots, belts, breastplates, hand guards and helmets, also happily bear any other difficulties and difficulties, such as Captain Hook of Hook, Mermaid shell bra, starting in 1993, A wearable pig's head is still on the table.
How about dildo?
A colleague behind him sneaked in naughty.
"Yes, yes, I have to do a very big fake penis too," he confirmed, and it sounded almost solemn in a moment.
I just like to solve the problem.
"In the ladies workshop upstairs, I designed gorgeous costumes for Mrs. Rich's eccentric behavior.
This is all farthingales, fan rolls (
Underwear is made by hand, and of course there are cycles)
Decorated with pastel colors and jewelry.
Five women at work said it was an interesting job, although they all agreed that the best job recently was last winter's Christmas Carol, which gave them the production of Victorian costumesMcArthur’s all-
At the same time, times is most popular with one soldier in every son-the rise of the Aztecs, mexican costume designer eloiz Kazan shows the unusual shape that "weird" we don't know about-but the team just ran with it.
For laymen, the clothes and bodice that are being completed look as fidgety as the real thing.
In reality, the rapid change in clothing means the need for a dummy to lace up and make the industry
A powerful magnet that connects everything together.
They are the best option: Velcro is too loud to leave a bump; zips get stuck.
Repetition is made for scenes that require dirty clothing, many non-
It can be washed with internal clothing, or it can be taken out to wash the "shield", while the others are dry. cleaned.
More than 100 vibrant performances, cracks and tears on stage are common, so there is some time to repair every day.
Mind, this is not the power of splendor.
Details are everything, especially the work of the RSC is occasionally transmitted to the cinema.
This has a greater impact on wigs.
Made by separate wigs and-up department]
Because you can see it up close.
"OK, but the photographer is good for us-which means we will hire our old costumes to make more films," MacArthur said . ".
Many old creations enter the warehouse and stay there, but it is also common for them to be re-reinforced and reused by RSC or hired out.
"Shakespeare in Love", "Gladiator" and "heart-to-heart" all use RSC leftovers.
Everyone I meet is very skilled, creative and happy at work (
"On World Reading Day, I had to show off on the playground;
I made the kids look great-it was Cleopatra this year, a Miller laughs)
However, all of this could be much easier if the RSC adopted more technology.
Or outsourcing production
Or just lowered the standard.
MacArthur sneered at the idea.
Have a faster laser way
The cut is perfect and original, but a lot of the things we do with our hands give us richness and depth.
We keep those crafts going.
Any imperfections, he says, will add layers to make clothing more vibrant.
As an RSC commitment to the value of the McArthur team, the entire department will be relocated to some rehearsal rooms for the next 18 months, while the workshop will be renovated and the flooding will be replaced carefully
Victorian room, 21-
It will also allow century space for public tourism.
Help fund that 8.
7 million renovation, online auction is underway for the company's "timely stitching" campaign
Works labeled with history-from the top hat worn by Sir Ian McClaren when Sir Trevor Nunn made 2007 seagulls, the bloody armor that Sir Derek Jacoby wore in "Macbeth"-dates back to 1970 later this month.
Last year, about 10,000 pieces of old clothing were sold in large public sales, bringing in £ 50,000.
But the pressure continues as 1 million pounds remain needed.
"These spaces are large and full of personality, but it's not easy to work in them.
"It's hard for us to store things where we have low beams, changing floors, and rails hanging on walls," MacArthur said . . . . . . ".
"The upgrade is huge and very expired, but this is what the RSC really deserves.
"Back upstairs, Hughes considered queuing --
The human model standing proudly on the wall.
They illustrate the scope of the work produced by the RSC, whether it be Shakespeare or other works.
On the 18 th, there are contemporary military uniforms
The century dress, and even a pink leather binding gear.
"This is the best," she said . " She put down the brush hard.
"On one occasion we had to make some poo for a movie and after the technical rehearsal we received a note saying it was not conspicuous enough for us to make it more shiny.
She made the perfect drama beat.
We were really asked to polish a turkey.
As part of RSC's timely fundraising campaign for renovations, eBay will conduct online clothing auctions from April 17-20 to April (rsc. org. uk/stitch-in-time).
Mcby Shakespeare, a collection of more than 300 dramatic photos taken in Stratford-upon-
The Avon of famous photographer Angus MCBI will be published by the University of Manchester Press in October 2018 (rsc. org. uk)
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