Background Studies and updates after electronic testing
Tactile Display and electronic equipment
The key to getting good safety results is: 1)High Voltage -Low Amperage (
Keep below 1 mA)
, Adjust voltage from 3-24 volts (
Everything is comfortable for you! )2)
Keep in good contact
Use a conductive gel between the skin and the device (
KY cube works great!
The water is good too! )
Background recently, in order to test the potential feasibility of a concept, I created a prototype for "digital condom" in the hackathon with Firaz Peer.
We created a video, prototype and live demo here to explain the concept.
Although the judges of the hackathon don't like our devices, the internet does.
When this video is spread around the world, some information changes and becomes distorted (as it does)
But it's not terrible.
Among dozens of blogs, the only actual interviews, so one of the best resources to get a quick look at our background and concepts comes from this Fast Company article. fastcolabs. com/3026836/a-world-of-open-source-sex-toys-built-by-three-georgia-tech-
Everything I created is open, this project is open
Hardware and opensource.
In addition to clapping on this license, open projects have the obligation to document and share the way things are made.
This instructable wants to share how to make its own pulsating gentle device
Electronic stimulation, perhaps through the construction process, you may be inspired to think about new technologies or uses of the concept.
The concept was driven by myself and by my business partners, Dr. Paul Clifton and Dr. felaz companion.
Please read why we created this, our inspiration, and why we are posting guidelines on how to build ourselves.
Why does this artifact exist?
It got inspiration from many fields. (
Bill and Melinda Gates)
The Gates Foundation designed a better condom challenge last year to design a better and more enjoyable condom.
Our goal is to make these sex devices more popular and easy to use, so that more people will actively seek to use them and help curb the spread of terrible diseases such as AIDS.
The race ended last year, and while people on the Internet might think so, the project didn't get any money, just a good idea for inspiration.
Throughout many of the outstanding designs submitted aimed at improving happiness or ease of use, most products target structural changes in the way condoms are packaged or used.
My excellent training at Georgia Tech prompted me to instead try and think about a way to bring digital changes to the condom world.
In the past, some condoms tried to increase the experience with electronic condoms.
Mechanical stimulation through a vibration ring that can be sold with them.
Instead, what I want may be more refined, programmable, and therefore responsive. Electro-
Mechanics provide great service for the industry, but in some thin, cheap and disposable industries I need a different way to transmit programmable stimuli to users.
This reminds me. . .
Wired articles/response environment group)
In my research on designing new interactions with the environment and animals, I always try to find new ways to provide information to humans. (
In fact, I'm going to Singapore this week for a seminar on designing enhanced sensory equipment at the National University of Singapore).
Not long ago, back in 2007, Wired published an article on the subject and discussed the use of the tongue as a high
Resolution spatial sensory equipment of "vision (
They have a very sweet figure with an eye on their tongue).
From then on, Gerston Dubrovnik and Joseph.
Paradiso has made a simple version of the spatial tongue stimulus with a vinyl cutter, which he calls tonguedino.
I can't use vinyl cutters or many other tools when I make "Electric Eel", so I want to see how possible it is to sew one together with a guide wire and fabric. (
I will post a simple little note later which is easy and fun too! ).
Once I am able to prove that this can work on the tongue, I would like to see if these feelings can be felt in other parts of your body.
Because I just started my own DIY sex recently. toy company (see below)
You can guess the body part I want to try.
It was also valid (
Although your sensitivity in these areas is much lower than your tongue, a higher voltage is required in order to get the same experience as your tongue).
From there, how to design such a prototype to see what is desirable in quality becomes a problem --
Production products (
Like a digital condom.
Even in how to build a self
Stimulus device. (Comingle. io)
Putting people in charge of their own sexual Technology is a new business founded by PhD student Paul Clifton and myself.
Our highest goal is to end up with Adafruit like sexual technology.
There are three main objectives of the business :-
Innovative means of stimulation (e. g.
Except for this. thing-just-vibrates-and-that-feels-
Good methodology)-
Develop new entities and collaboration interfaces (e. g. beyond this-controller-switches-to-three-modes-of-vibration-intensity). -
Enable others to create their own customized sexual technology experience (e. g.
Build your own device or crack existing devices by providing information and parts)
Developing this business has inspired me to think of a device that can not only be fun to use, but also potentially prevent diseases.
The rest of this manual will show you how to build the "Electric Eel" prototype seen in the video.
This is mainly for use with the male body. parts.
The shape of this device can also be easily modified for use with other sensitive body parts of other genders.
Just use your imagination!
You could be 10-40 dollars.
The micro-controller is probably the most expensive part (
Next to your time).
Soft, thin, elastic fabric from T-
Shirts distributed by sponsors at the hackathon.
To get the best results, we used the thinnest, softest t-shirt material.
This allows the device to stretch to your proportions and ensure a strong connection (
Critical to its operation).
The soft touch makes it uncomfortable to wear.
Conductive fabric we used stretch Leca from Lessemf (
Find conductive fabric with elasticity)
VelcroThis gives your eel a solid but adjustable fit for you.
We can also use it to protect other parts such as batteries. Small, Sew-
We got a lilypad that we can use, but smaller, cheaper versions like Gemma can also work fine.
You can even take the normal Attiny85 and use a variety of methods to make it stable, such as making cheap special conductive patches with conductive fabrics.
We used power supply No. 3.
The 3 volt lithium battery, because it is very small, wireless, and everything we have.
I recommend using a 5 volt battery, but if you are using a lilypad make sure it doesn't exceed 5 volts or you may blow it up.
However, I have seen that the voltage of attiny85 can easily exceed 6 volts.
There are several varieties that have their own advantages and disadvantages. we used what I think is silver. mixed nylon (
You can find this from Jameco for a fairly cheap price).
We try to use some stainless steel wire, bit it has so much friction and distortion that it keeps breaking on our sewing machine, even when we sew it by hand. Large-
The needle thread head of the eyes is thick, not very fun in general, and it is difficult to thread.
You may also need a needle-piercing device (
Although I have been breaking my).
Waterproof fabric barrier if you notice in the final design, there is a small piece of white between the shaft and the controller.
It's a bit of Tyvek, permeable water
Resistant fabrics used in many mailing envelopes (And DIY wallet).
We installed this water belt.
Because the main body of the equipment needs to be soaked in order to work properly (
Or soak in olives.
Oil, although it is more troublesome to clean up).
This gives you the conductivity you need to get the stimulus (
Bare skin will not shake)
It simulates lubrication embedded in real digital condoms.
When creating this device, I ran into some architectural/modeling issues that I hadn't really dealt with before.
How to design clothing for body parts that can be changed in size?
Also, how do you make measurements to effectively customize this suit?
The answer lies largely in the use of resilient-
The fabric and uses a part of the fabric itself for measurement.
There are fabric marker pens around (or some chalk).
Cut off a piece of 25 cm square meters of spare fabric.
Put it under Yourself (like a hammock).
Then wrap the target body part comfortably (
But not too tight).
Number of fabrics marked for waist circumference.
Once the body part is closed, you may want to straighten it out again if the feeling needs to be adjusted.
The end should be open.
Use the distance of the fabric under your notes to the bottom of the body part.
After that you will want an extra 7 cm to accommodate the micro controller.
Finally, you should have the size to crop a piece of rectangular fabric that fits you.
Take your rectangular fabric and cut 7 cm of the bottom.
Cut a piece of waterproof fabric (like the Tyvek)
That is the width and 3 of your eel body. 5 cm tall.
The waterproof fabric barrier sew two pieces of soft fabric on each side of the water barrier.
You can use about 1 cm of the zigzag stitching and overlapping fabric and waterproof fabric and maintain a clear gap between the two pieces.
Keep two pieces of soft fabric on one side of the waterproof fabric.
From now on, the soft fabric part will be the shaft and the shorter part of the waterproof fabric will be the bottom.
The outside will be the continuous side of the waterproof fabric;
Inside will be the side of two soft fabric stitching (
For comfort reasons).
The place where we put the electrodes is inside.
The shaft of the length of the two pieces of the Velcro.
Make the blurred piece 2 cm wide.
Connect the blurry part to the outer edge.
Make the sticky piece 1 cm wide, sew to the other side, but sew inside.
We need to run the conductive path throughout the unit.
Put your lilypad on the base and circle it with a loom pen.
Make sure you also put the pins you will use.
Next, draw your circuit on the fabric.
Do this on the "inside" of the eel.
Our design has five leads on the sensitive underside of the body part.
You may want different areas more or less.
It should be remembered that this feeling does not come from the electrode itself as the shortest path between the electrode and the common area.
In general, I find that the further away from the ground and the electrodes, the less you feel the output.
Keep these factors in mind if you redesign.
Also keep in mind that you don't want to run these connections all the way to the bottom of the waterproof barrier.
The thread takes your device to the sewing machine, "inside" up.
You should have a conductive wire shaft at the bottom of the sewing machine. (
I think it would be easier if the wire guide was actually on the top, but all my wire guide was too thick to be used on it, is there any suggestion for this? )
Stitch along all the routes you just have located at the electrode position from the Lilypad pin.
Make sure to hang a large number of extra conductive threads from both ends of these connections.
At this point, all of these wires should be safely insulated on the "outside" of the shaft.
It's time to take out your conductive fabric.
Cut out 5 0
5 cm square meters, there is a longer electrode for the ground of 0.
5 cm wide, length of shaft.
Place these in the appropriate area on the inside of the shaft and stitch the guide wires into each pad.
Cycle the threads several times at each corner of the pad to ensure a good connection.
Remove the lilypad, place it in position and stitch the guide wire through the appropriate pins.
Once all the connections are bundled in place, then you can trim the threads of the suspension.
To get a hard connection from the battery to the yplypad, we need to get two male pins.
Bend these in the form of z-
Shape and weld Vin and ground on lilypad.
Next stick a small piece of Velcro to the battery and sew the other side of the Velcro to the eel next to the lilypad.
Now the battery is there and we can plug it in when we want to turn it on.
You might want to go further and install a better switch or something.
You can get our most basic Arduino sketch from our Github report.
Flash all output pins one by one and resolve the device failure well to ensure it works properly.
You can change the delay to control the speed of the it loop.
One is the same as above, but there are two sensors at a time (
I found it more noticeable at low voltage)
Make sure it does work before you go through all the hassle of tying it.
Your tongue is a nice probe in this case.
As lilypad walks, lick these pads and you should be able to feel the pulse on and off as a small, exciting hue.
If everything is OK, let's pack this up.
Once you connect it and load a sample program to test its functionality, then we'll put on a small cover to protect the electronics.
Put a piece (non-conductive)
The fabric is the same size as the base, just sew the top on the lilypad (
With positive Line).
Next, sew some Velcro on the bottom and flap and you will have a nice little hood that can be closed or openedup for re-programming.
Your tongue is wet and this is a good probe.
If the electrode works with the bare skin, you will not be able to feel it.
So before you tie it to yourself, you need to soak the shaft in the water.
Make sure you don't get the base (
Where are all electronic devices)
Wet or you might short things (
See why we have a waterproof barrier now? ).
You probably don't want to get it wet either.
Put it on, adjust it, and when you roll yourself in, you may not notice a sharp feeling like that on your tongue.
You probably didn't notice anything at all.
You may feel a sting or even a warm feeling.
It is also reported to have the feeling of tapping or even pinching.
There are many factors that affect this feeling, but from my experiments so far, the main factors that affect this feeling are tightness and positioning.
You may want to adjust the eel when things stabilize until it reaches the feeling you like.
We have two modes in our presentation.
1 is just a basic beating "blink" program, while the other program accepts the input.
Consistent with our goals in Co-2
Mingle, we want to explore new ways to interact with toys and provide guidance on how to stimulate toys.
One simple thing we do is make a simple breathing sensor and connect it to the device.
This explores some of the ideas of passive organisms.
Feedback, and positive feedback from you or your partner on the sensor.
Additional materials for breathing sensors: more fabrics that change resistance when stretching, more threads, crocodile clips, conductive rubber (
Available from Adafruit), Resistor (
Adafruit is great, when you get it they actually package a resistor with your rubber).
New code: 1 cut a piece of fabric 18 cm wide into length and it almost completely bypassed your chest except for the 8 cm gap.
Grab a piece of conductive rubber and use it to connect the ends of the fabric "bra" around the chest.
Hold it so that when your chest is resting, conductive rubber is taught and you notice a certain stretch when you breathe in.
Cut the rubber into this length.
Connect the crocodile clip to each end of the rubber band. Mini-
In the second step, two more 2 cm-wide fabric "communication straps" can be cut to extend comfortably from the chest to the groin.
Sew one end of each sling on each side of the "bra", sew the conductive liner on each end of the sling, and sew the conductive thread on these conductive pads of each sling.
For your electric eel, sew two additional conductive pads on the base, one to the pin you will use as the input, and the other to the Vin of the micro-controller.
Run the resistance between the analog input pin and the ground.
Now you can clip (
Or permanently sewn)
The sling of your eel
Your input sensor circuit should be complete.
Now we need to tell the computer how to deal with this information. Mini-
Step 3, this is the procedure we use to control the eel.
You can start with this, but you may need to recalibrate your sensor according to your exact needs.
* Warning that these have not been fully tested yet, our tests indicate that 6-
9 volts provides better performance in areas of interest to stimulate.
Lilypad can only output up to 5 V 40ma.
Therefore, with a slightly more complex design, the output on the Arduino is used to trigger the transistor gate to release more power (
But not so much.
Better results may be given.
We don't have time yet to make this happen, but I'll let you know when we do!
However, the basics of how this works for your information means that you only need a few more parts: the more powerful batteryI recommends offering 6 or 9 volts (maybe even 11-12).
Note that these voltages will fry your lilypad, which is why you need a… before you plug it into your micro controller. . .
5 v voltage regulator these are cheap small chips, you can input a series of voltage from your power supply, it will output a specific voltage.
You want a 3-
5 v 1 enters the brain of your device. Transistors (Or Dual H-
Bridge motor controller
These are small doors and you can control the flow of large voltages by triggering them with low voltage (
Like Arduino came out).
These will go in.
Between the Arduino and the electrical output contacts that exist in the original design, each contact will provide the full voltage of the power supply.
To save space in your device, you can easily get very little spaceto-
Chip with several transistors built in
Such as SN-75707! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! Dual H-
Bridge motor controller.
These install 4 controllable outputs on a tiny chip.
Current limiting device (Resistors)
Your skin will provide a lot of resistance, but in order to be safe and prevent any burns, you need to make sure that there is not much current flowing through this different setting.
There is a device that specifically limits current, but if you don't, you may want to connect a sample circuit, starting with adding a very high resistance to the mixture and lowering that slightly, until you reach a pleasant voltage level.
I believe this part is mature for many of the community's suggestions, which is why we have to make this note anyway!
So let us know if you have other better, safer ideas!