Have you ever thought that you can give someone something for Christmas that will bring you more smiles than they do.
This is one of those things!
In a simple explanation, it is an electric device (
Similar to one of my previous structures)
This is remotely controlled by the hidden button in your clothes, the shock system is taken from a disposable camera, and after some modifications, this is the control system for shooting from a cheap remote control car.
I would now highly recommend that if you would like to complete this project in time to use it, then I should have a detailed understanding of how it is done.
Warning: When you collect this system to use electric shock, the current must remain extremely low and the voltage used to power the electric shock device should not exceed 1. 5 v .
Since this is remotely controlled, there is no reason to shock someone in a way that the current passes through the heart or other vital organs/nerves.
I am not responsible for what you do with this.
To build the remote controller shock you need: 1 one-time photographer batteriestin foila project box to accommodate ita push to make the locked switcha remote control car (
Only forwarding function is required
The remote control of the two AA battery cases in the Carwide ribbonselotapea series starts to disassemble the remote control car and I find that I can simply do this by removing a few screws that you may not be very lucky, when all this is done, find the control board and find the wires leading to the drive motor.
As long as the wires and battery housing on the car are not affected, it is also useful to cut off the end of the chassis, which makes it easier to install in the box.
The wires that you have previously discovered that cause the motor to be driven should be cut off and you must find the "positive" wires (
I add the quotes as positive, depending on whether you press the "forward" or "back" button on the remote control. here is how:1.
Make sure the car is on.
Connect an LED where the motor is located.
Press the forward button on remote4.
If the led is on, then the wire connected from the circuit board to the LED longer electrode is positive.
Turn the led if it's not on, or just use the back button as the trigger (
View the following steps)
Then weld a push to lock (
Must be a lock)
Switch to positive (
Or no, it doesn't matter in this case)
The wires connected to the motor this will leave a broken chassis with the electronics and two wires of the car, one of which output wires will turn on the switch to make sure you know which line is positive.
This step may damage your remote control and you can ignore it if you want to and leave it as it is.
Doing so will not affect the finished system unless you need to hide the full remote control on your person in your pocket where you can press the button instead of having a secret switch in your hand.
If you are very confident and have time (NO DEADLINE)
You can try the procedure outlined in this step.
As the car is taken apart at the last step, you have to take apart the remote control, which is a similar program for separating the car, but keep all the parts you remove and do it in such a way, that is, the remote can go back to the original look, because this is a good case.
Lift it up when you get to the board so you can be on both sides (
This may include screwing it off the shell)
Find the antenna that might fall out like you, weld a long wire (
As long as you have stripped the end connected to the board, it doesn't matter if the wire is insulated)
To the metal point on the board, contact it in the air.
You can also find the forward button on the remote control and describe it, connect a long insulated wire to each point on the board and weld it.
Connect the ends of these wires with a button to make a non-locking switch, so that the original button on the board is now replaced by a switch at the end of the wire about 2 m in length.
Then reassemble the remote control and screw it back together, let the new air Wire and The Wire on the switch stretch out from the remote through the narrow gap between the parts, and add some hot glue to fix the wire.
These wires should be kept so they can't be pulled out and pressed on them through the narrow gap between the parts of the housing, the glue is just an extra measure.
I had a problem with this and destroyed (NOT SURE HOW)
My Remote is in the process, so I have to buy a new one, without modifying the remote, it is always an option to just hide it in the pocket of a thick coat.
To do this, I will borrow some of the shocking instructions in the next few pages.
This is where we started, knowing that you have a camera and something else, you need to get back the circuit that charges the camera flash. here is how.
Turn on the camera by "releasing" The front and back, then separate them, stop now, you can get a serious shock from the capacitor, so read carefully at this stage, touch the camera by hand and disconnect/pull the plastic battery using a screwdriver with an insulated handle. Moving the battery still avoids touching the metal by hand, which will stop charging the capacitor because some cameras will charge automatically.
When you can see the circuit board placing the metal tip of the screwdriver on the wire leading to the capacitor (
Write a Black average looking cylinder of 350 V along the side)
It will discharge the capacitor and make the circuit relatively safe.
Now remove the board, we are ready to continue by finding the capacitor on the board and heating the point welded to the board with soldering iron, when the soldering tin melts, pull the capacitor open.
We don't need it, but you might want it to be used for other projects.
Then, we have to remove the components of the battery holder like removing the capacitor and placing the wires in the position of the battery holder, remember which part of the bracket has reached which end of the battery, please mark the wire if helpful.
These wires will be your input leads.
After removing the capacitor and connecting the wires for the battery input (1. 5v)
We will need an output wire of 450 V to connect to our electrodes.
This is done by connecting the wire to the hole where we remove the capacitor and welding the new wire in place. (
You might want to color your wire (
Battery positive Red, battery negative black, high voltage output Green)
But I did not. )
In addition, you can remove the small light on the circuit that provides the flash, and do not remove the led, because as long as we can see it, this allows us to continue using the circuit as a capacitor charger.
Then we have to find the charging switch and we want to weld it in the closed position.
The switch is usually a small metal cushion that can be pressed on it, connecting two contacts on the board and completing a circuit. We can remove it by twisting some of the curved metal attached to the plate.
Then weld in the wire connecting the two electrodes (
Join the bare metal)
Or use a drop of solder in the same work, which will ensure that the circuit is charged at all times, resulting in a 450 V
At this point before we proceed, we should check whether the previous stage has been completed correctly.
Connect the positive input line to the positive end of the battery, if you dare, connect the output line to the voltmeter or finger, and connect the negative input to the negative terminal of the battery.
You should see the voltmeter read 450 V (
Or at least above 200)
Or a strong shock (
I don't know if I should compare it to a lot of other people I don't have).
This indicates that the transformer in the circuit is successfully converted to a higher voltage and that the current is pulsed by the circuit so that it can be used by the transformer.
If you do not see high pressure or get an electric shock, please double check the previous steps to see if you have made an error somewhere.
If you do not try to use another circuit of another camera, is there any connection loose.
When done, the similarity with my shocker instructable end is that once you have a working Shoker, connect the negative input line of the Shoker to the negative position of the car drive motor and welding.
Connect the positive output of the car to the negative end of the dual AA battery stand, and connect the positive input line of the impactor to the positive end of the battery stand.
This will allow for greater voltage to be provided to the impactor, so that it can overcome the high resistance of the tin foil electrode that the person receiving the gift will come into contact.
Also, I found it necessary to connect a wire from positive to negative on the battery stand, as a bypass, which I think leads to something similar to what was found in the capacitor, because this bypass impactor will hit you when you let it go instead of picking it up the first time.
The high voltage output wires of your shocker circuit will be processed in a few steps.
On this page I have some pictures of what the circuit should look like after it's done, and they may not be very clear, but I have to admit that my circuit is quite confusing.
Now, we will discuss the situation that contains your circuit and you need a box large enough to hold all the circuits.
And a piece of tin paper. 1.
Put all the necessary batteries into the remote control impact circuit and set all the switches to make it work properly, when it works, when you press the forward button on the remote control, the LED on the impact board will light up and you can also get an electric shock from the high voltage output wires when you touch them or remove your hands from them. 2.
Find the box that you will put it in, wrap it half in tin paper, just like packing a gift, tin foil can't cover more than half of the box, in fact, it has to be about centimeters shorter than half-wire.
The edges of this tin foil should be covered with tape to keep it in place, do not stick it to the box with tape, just keep it in shape with tape.
You then have to slide the tin paper half way from the box, and then you should be able to slide it down again so it covers half of the box.
This foil should be used as an electrode for your high voltage wire (
More information later).
Repeat the process by making foil covers for the other half of the box, and when they all slide on top, they should not touch in the middle (
We will introduce joining later). 3.
If necessary, use some polystyrene packaging as a buffer material, place the impact circuit controlled by theremote into the box, but on the lid, there are screws on the lid of some boxes.
These screws should be tightened to seal and you can remove them if something goes wrong later (
Shut it off otherwise).
The antenna should be gently bent to fit in the box, and the high voltage line should be from (narrow)
The gap between the lid and the box. 4.
Slide two halves of the tin foil onto the box with a slightly taught high voltage line, then attach the high voltage line to each half with a small piece of tape.
The stripping end of the wire should be in contact with the bare tin foil and fixed in place with a small piece of tape.
Press the tape subsequently to ensure good contact between the wire and the foil. 5.
Winding a wide ribbon at the connection, the ribbon must of course be non-conductive and cover the tape that holds each half together, and must also cover the tape that holds the wire on the foil.
When this is done, keep (
Your hand must be in contact with two halves of tin foil)
The box in your right hand (
If the worst happens, further away from your heart)
And press the forward button on the remote control (
If it fails, try the back button and you may have made a wiring error before).
You may not be shocked if you are not shocked, or if there is only one very small person trying to release the box from your grip.
You should be more shocked when you do so.
If you still feel that there is no electric shock, please remove the strap, slide half from the box, remove the high voltage line from the half and see if you will be shocked by the wire, if you can see that there is a problem with the half (
Maybe their resistance is too high and they did this for my original low voltage design).
If you are not hit, open the box and check your circuit.
Once you find a valid configuration, slide half off the box, then close the circuit inside, and then a few hours before the person receives their gift, turn it back on again.
This is why it is important not to seal the box permanently or use half of the box that cannot be disassembled and replaced.
I later found out that each half piece should be made with at least three layers of foil, wrap the first layer as per my explanation, and then wrap the second layer on it to cover it, and use a small amount of tape to hold them to the edges.
Repeat the third/fourth layer and press it together (this (
A little bit)
The metal cover of the box is thicker, thus reducing its resistance.
I also found it useful to periodically wrap around the box some ropes or metal foil rings, as my device seems to vibrate only when your hand is a few millimeters away from it (
These loops should shock the people who picked it up by holding it too tight.
That's it, please PM me if you have any questions about this, I will do my best to answer, I am not responsible for what you do with this device or what it does to you (OR ANYONE ELSE).
Update: The party was yesterday (21st december)
, Although it's a little weaker than I thought, it works fine.
Before someone realized that control was in my pocket, people had been hit by "random" for quite some time.